Exercise Pen or wire Puppy Gate to block off an area in your home for the rabbit to live in. 36” or taller for most, but 30” pens can work if a sheet is clipped over the top during the first week or so to prevent the rabbit from jumping over. Make sure the bunny cannot stick its head through the wire or get stuck.  Pens are not recommended for outdoor housing; they are not predator-proof but trap bunny so she cannot get away.

Outdoor housing is not recommended. If the rabbit must live outdoors, purchase or build a large hutch (minimum 2’ x 4’ per rabbit) with solid flooring.

Litterbox: The bigger, the better! We like large cat boxes with rims.

Litter: Paper- or aspen-based litters are good; other litters can be dangerous. Some brands of safe litter: CareFresh, Aspen Supreme pelleted litter, Yesterday’s News (“Original Unscented” only).  Pine shavings cause respiratory and liver damage; clumping litters can clog a rabbit’s digestive system; clay litters also cause respiratory problems.

Hay: Alfalfa for babies, oat blend, timothy, orchard grass hays for adults. Make sure to transition the rabbit onto alfalfa hay slowly if she is not used to it. Hay is a must for all healthy rabbits. 

Fresh Produce: Visit your local farmer’s market or health food store to buy organic produce (parsley, Romaine lettuce, dandelion, etc.—see recommended vegetable list). All produce must be washed thoroughly to remove pesticides and herbicides.  Vegetables keep best in a well-regulated refrigerator in plastic bags with a towel inside to absorb moisture.  Don’t feed wilted or rotten veggies; if in doubt, throw them out (or better yet, compost)!

Bunny Pellets: We recommend a timothy-based pellet such as Oxbow Bunny Basics T for adults (rabbits 8 months and over, done growing) and an alfalfa-based pellet such as Oxbow Bunny Basics 15/23 for babies and growing bunnies. Kaytee Supreme plain pellets, with no nuts or seeds, is the best widely-available alternative to people who find the Oxbow products too expensive.

Water/Food Dishes: Heavy crocks or clip-on dishes. Crocks are usually preferable to water bottles--they can be easily cleaned and bunnies drink more water from a crock. Food dishes should be small, water dishes, large. 

Toys/Treats: Hard plastic toys such as jingle balls and barrels for cats and birds make good bunny toys. The rabbit should not be able to ingest or get caught on any element of the toy. Pet store treats are usually not recommended for rabbits (check the ingredients before buying). Small pieces of fresh fruit (see recommended fruit list) or dried applewood twigs are better for bunny.

Hideaway: Wooden nest boxes or cardboard houses for bunny to jump and hide in.     

Carrier: Hard plastic carriers that have a top opening are preferred. Artificial lambswool prevents bunny from slipping and absorbs moisture in the carrier. 

Grooming Products: A nail clipper, small flea comb, and hamster brush.  A slicker brush can be okay for longer-haired rabbits but use gently—the metal tines can hurt bunny’s delicate skin. Laxatone or Petromalt can help prevent hair blockages.

Flea Products: For "outdoor bunnies" or those in contact with cats and dogs that go outdoors, Advantage is the best product.  The 0-9 lb. cat tubes are recommended to prevent overdose.  Half the recommended dose is usually effective and safer for the bunny. Because rabbits groom themselves and each other constantly, care must be taken to follow the instructions on the packet. Kitten flea powder with artificial carbaryl (Zodiac, Adams brands) is usually safe. NEVER use flea collars, dips, Frontline (all potentially fatal) or other flea products that have not been extensively tested on rabbits.

Cleaning Products: Gallon jugs of white vinegar, paper towels, hand vacuum and/or broom. When you change bunny’s box, pour a thin coat of vinegar on the bottom of the box, let it soak for a few minutes, then rinse; you’ll have no odor and no build-up. Vinegar also works miracles in getting urine off linoleum, tiles and wood and helping litterbox-train your bunny. You will want to keep bunny’s living quarters scrupulously clean. Rabbits don’t tolerate molds and must have a clean environment, but they are also sensitive to cleaning products such as bleach and other caustic cleaners.
    
What NOT to buy:

● Wire Cages. Wire cages cause hutch sores and are usually too small to provide humane housing.
● Harnesses.  Most harnesses are not constructed properly and bunny can strangle, get loose, or break her back from a sudden stop. Harnesses cannot protect the rabbit or caretaker from predator attacks.
● Hay Racks. These don’t provide the amount of hay bunny needs. Rabbits can get their feet caught in the racks and hang.
● Seed & Nut Treats. Too fattening as well as choking hazards.
● Yogurt Drops. These "treats" are just too sugar-laden.
● Vitamin Drops for the water. That is not the way to provide vitamins for your bunnies.
● Exercise Balls & Wheels. These are really cruel for a rabbit.
● Chew Blocks. Most of them are a waste of money. Bunnies prefer organic apple twigs or willow.